Biologique Recherche's Lotions (Acid Toners)
A couple of weeks ago, I was able to test two samples of Biologique Recherche's P50 and P50PIGM 400 when I walked into Rescue Spa's brick and mortar store to buy P50 1970 to add to my P50W 1970. I wanted to share my very humble thoughts on all of them.
Ingredients will be listed below for every type they make. To the best of my knowledge, they only sell the 1970 versions (OG) in the USA, so I apologize for those of you who cannot purchase them yet wish to!
I originally started with P50W 1970 on the recommendation of an acquaintance. It was a major splurge purchase for my birthday this year and it arrived the day after I purchased (yay for living close to Philadelphia!). I was shocked by the smell. I wasn't prepared for the phenol. It was pretty overwhelming. I knew Caroline Hirons loved her BR lotions (i.e., acid toners) though so I continued on. I actually got a cold a few days later and couldn't smell, and I don't think that hurt my ability to keep on using it. 😉At the time, I was struggling with using Pixi Glow Tonic (review here) and felt that although the glycolic acid wasn't too strong it just made my face feel gross. So I wanted a half day routine substitute to slot in for daytime so I could continue using Nip+Fab's Extreme Glycolic Night pads in the evening. My skin immediately changed. It was happier. Less oily. Really more smooth (for me). It does smell like a chemical factory, but it isn't too harsh in its ability and gets the job done.
When I purchased the stronger P50 1970 (the esthetician recommended it after seeing my skin) I used it and was shocked again. This stuff was even stronger smelling than the P50W 1970! Way stronger!!! And here's the one way I would know, besides the smell, that I have used the non-W version. My face feels ever so slightly numb after. Yep. Numb. I like having both, but for my skin the strongest version is the correct one. It just feels good.
Over this last week I used the two tiny sample vials they kindly gave me so I could review them in comparison.
P50 is the non-phenol version of the strongest. I expected it to be gangbusters strong but with no phenol. I was wrong. It might be the strongest of the non-phenol varieties, but I found it milder like W 1970, without the harshness of the chemical smell. So if you have a crazy sensitive nose, and don't have sensitive skin (or if you're nursing or pregnant) this is the version for you. It still does have a bit of an unpleasant odor. That's to be expected with all of them. They were formulated for results and not for us to enjoy the scent lol!
Lastly I tried Caroline Hirons' beloved P50 PIGM 400 (she has recommended this variety for those with pigmentation issues). Again, this smells a lot less than the phenol versions, and to me is even softer smelling that P50.
- P50W Thin and/or reactive Skin (W=Wrinkles/older skin/delicate skin)
P50W : Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Niacinamide, Vinegar (Acetum), Ethoxydiglycol, Magnesium Chloride, Lactic Acid, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Bonzoate, Sulfur
P50V: "Devitalised and/or pigmented and/or less toned Skin” (V for Vitamin/antioxidants for older skin) http://shoprescuespa.com/lotion-p50-v.html
Biologique Recherche P50 V Active ingredients include Onion Extract, Lactic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Burdock Extract, and Plankton
P50PIGM 400 Dull, pigmented Skin
Exfoliating Active Ingredients: Alpha-Hydroxy-Acids, Australian Finger Lime Extract, Beta-Hydroxy-Acids, Poly-Hydroxy Acid, Phytic Acid, Levulinic Acid. Purifying Active Ingredients: Magnesium Chloride, Magnesium Sulfate, Meadowsweet Extract. Lightening and Anti-Spots Active Ingredients: Palmaria Palmata Extract (Red Alga), Complex of Fruits Titrated In Flavonoids and AHAs. Antioxidant Active Ingredients: Vitamin B3, Wasabi Extract
- Phenol versions:
P50 1970 (Strongest formulation available)
water, glycerin, phenol, niacinamide, vinegar, magnesium chloride, lactic acid, arctium lappa root extract, salicylic acid, sodium benzoate sulfur
P50W 1970 (Next strongest formulation available)
Biologique Recherche P50 W Active ingredients include Onion Extract, Lactic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Burdock Extract, and Panama Wood Extract *contains Phenol
P50V 1970 super sensitive skin "Devitalised and/or pigmented and/or less toned Skin” (V for Vitamin/antioxidants for older skin)
Biologique Recherche P50 V Active ingredients include Onion Extract, Lactic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Burdock Extract, and Plankton, *contains phenol.
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